It is late 2012. We have just finished a tango festival in Portland and are laying over an extra day before flying to San Francisco for dental meetings. It’s raining. It’s Portland.
We sleep in and spend the morning working on Association projects in connection with the coming meeting. We have lunch and then proceed to do laundry. Everything takes longer than we anticipate. Finally, in the late afternoon, we begin our journey to explore some local hot springs. We drive toward Mt. Hood. Guided by Google Maps and the global positioning capability of our phones we follow roads through the countryside and pass increasingly smaller towns until we find that we are no longer on a road flanked by fields, but one winding through a densely forested area along some kind of river gorge. Here and there we catch glimpses of the river which is no longer smooth and wide and dark, but now narrow and rocky, crashing and cascading with whitewater. Outcroppings of rock occasionally break through the dark green carpet of trees. These are memorable landmarks as the sides of the road steepen.
It’s been a couple of hours. It’s still raining. We manage to find a Forest Service information station just before it closes and just before needing to turn on the headlights. It is late. Lorraine, who wanted so much to visit some natural hot springs, is disappointed. The rain and encroaching darkness are discouraging, but we have come so far. I am willing to learn what I can. Lorraine waits in the car while I inquire inside. I ask about the hot springs and am given information. The station is well equipped and the attendant, who is about to close up, informs me that the springs are fairly close and open. She gives me additional, detailed directions. The station stocks inexpensive rain ponchos, and flashlights. I make these purchases and return to the car with more confidence. Lorraine is surprised. It takes another 15-20 minutes on various roads in the forested area, switching highway designations several times, but we follow her instructions closely and have no trouble finally finding the trailhead. The following image was taken on the trail of Lorraine in her rain poncho.
Bagby Hot Springs is popular. When we arrive, just before nightfall, we find other persons there and some preparing to leave. Facilities consist of several rough buildings constructed of local water-resistant redwood. The main building is constructed on a slope and seems to house a series of stalls, each with a bench, nails in the wooden wall to hang clothes or towels, and a long tub hewn out of a huge redwood trunk easily large enough to accommodate two bathers. A half hollow log redwood trough along the closed side of the structure, like a rudimentary miniature Roman aqueduct, brings hot water from the spring to the bathing structure. Through the far wall at the foot of each tub is an opening to this trough and a fist-sized stone or wooden peg that allows one to regulate the flow of hot water into the tub. And there is a round peg of wood that fits into a 3-inch round hole in the bottom of the tub that, when removed, completely empties the tub, dumping all the water down the slope some distance below the floor of the building, and from there it flows back into the river.
At the end of the building there is a larger, open patio space that contains three traditional circular-style wooden hot tubs. Each tub can apparently accommodate 3-5 persons and has a connection to the elevated trough. There is a fourth large cistern from which cold water can be drawn and carried in plastic 5-gallon pails to cool or temper the water in any of the tubs.
We find an empty stall, fill the trough style tub, add a couple of buckets of cold water, place the fist-sized stone again at the gate to shut off the flow, slip off our clothes, step over the edge, and easily slide our bodies under the water against the smooth, well worn wood. The room is half roofed; above us a partial roof keeps the drizzle at bay, but the open roof above the lower end of the tub allowed it to lightly pelt the surface of the water under which our lower legs lay. As light fades before total darkness descends we lay together in the water, wet and warm, and watch through the open roof the graceful, shadowy movement of the tall trees in the light air and misty rain.
This combination of sensations and raw intimate-with-nature oneness, the remoteness of the location, our naked vulnerability and connection to the water wood and elements invokes a kind of reverence—a respectful and energetic silence– that compels us for some time to listen . . . to just listen to the air moving through the trees, to the rain, to the sound of gurgling water flowing through the trough or falling from the structure, and to our own breathing.